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Archive for the 'Bleach Facts' Category
Bleach Stains: Your Questions

Q: I used Clorox Bleach on some new white men’s briefs. They turned yellow. I have never had this to happen before. Do you know what may have caused this?

A: It would have been helpful if you indicated how the bleach was used to narrow down the possibilities for you, and whether the yellowing was spotted or more uniform Here’s my best guesses.

First, I NEVER recommend using Clorox® Regular-Bleach full-strength on any item or surface. Hopefully you did not do this treating a specific area/stain. It should always be diluted because it is so strong. If unrinsed, it can actually cause little holes in the garment. That can happen if there is accidental liquid bleach spillage and someone brushes against the washer.

If you touched up a stained area, you could have destroyed the fabric whiteners in that area, which would be seen as a yellow spot. Not much you can do for this problem, but repeated washing may lessen the yellow appearance.

The most likely culprit is poor water quality with metals (iron or manganese) in the water or pipes. Summer is notorious for sudden changes in water quality and is more pronounced in rural or well water areas. These react with the sodium hypochlorite active in Clorox bleach, forming more colored materials that deposit on the clothes. After drying, the clothes are essentially dyed with the colored material. If all the items have a uniform discoloration, then this is the most likely cause.

Also, I assume this product did NOT have polyacrylate to help complex the metals. You may need to start using separate products to treat the wash water supply – here, we use IronOut – as sometimes the hot water heater can also have build-up. For the clothes, a separate product can be used to strip the discoloration away.

Brightening White Towels: Your Questions

Q: My husband likes to use a white washcloth in the shower on a daily basis. After a few launderings, the washcloth soon turns gray. I periodically bleach the cloths in hot water and Clorox Bleach, but, after a time, this no longer works. What is the best way to keep these washcloths looking clean and bright longer?

A: First off, make sure you’re using a good detergent. If you have hard water, you might consider moving to a powdered detergent. This type of detergent contains ingredients called builders that make the water softer when faced with complex water. Interestingly, better cleaning happens in soft water. Also, you might want to add a little extra detergent to make sure you’re in a good cleaning environment. This helps if you have a heavy soil load. It also helps prevent re-deposition of removed soil back onto the “cleaned” cloth.

Here are a few additional suggestions to consider:

  • Don’t over-pack the washer – too much laundry means the detergent can’t get to all the stains/soils to remove them.
  • ALWAYS wash whites in HOT water. The hotter the water the better the removal.
  • I am a strong believer in adding bleach to EVERY white load − Wash EVERY white load in hot water with detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular- Bleach to help finish the job.
Red Dyes on Light Colored Fabrics in Laundry: Your Questions

Q: I made the mistake of washing a new red shirt with my other shirts with light colors. The red colored shirt bled and the light colored shirts have red stains all over. Could you help me get the stains off?

A: I probably don’t have much good news for you. New dark colors are notorious for bleeding for a few washes and should always be washed with similar dark colors. That’s why I always recommend sorting at least whites, lights and darks to avoid the problem in the future.

Depending on how extensive the red spots are and the type of fibers (cotton, poly/cotton, etc) of the remaining shirts, I would try the following:

To have a better chance at red dye removal you will need to kick it up a notch on the bleach scale hopefully to liquid bleach like Clorox® Regular-Bleach. So we need to know if the lighter colored items can stand to be bleached.

  • Just do the simple Bleachability Test on any colored portion in a hidden part of the shirts (2 tsp liquid Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden color section area like inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel;; no color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item).
  • Then follow the recommended presoak procedure (1/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in gallon of warm water for 5-10 minutes before laundering). Wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach
  • If the colors are not bleachable, then I would presoaking/applying Liquid Clorox2® for Colors Color Safe Bleach (Apply; rub in; wait ~ 5 minutes; then wash immediately with detergent and recommended amount of Liquid Clorox2® for Colors Color Safe Bleach
  • Check for success and retreat if needed BEFORE drying
    Also remember that washing in hotter water will SLOWLY remove additional dye over time; this will usually be barely perceptible wash-to-wash.
Bleach Stains on Clothes: Your Questions

Q: I had a stain on a 100% cotton golf shirt. It had been washed a few times when I finally saw the stain. I took a Q-tip and dipped it into Clorox Bleach and rubbed it on the stain. I have done this before on white clothing and the stain came right out. This time, everywhere I used the bleach on the shirt, it turned yellow. Unless I can get these stains out, it’s ruined. Please help!

A: First, I NEVER recommend using Clorox® Regular-Bleach full-strength on any item or surface. It should always be diluted because it is so strong and if unrinsed, can actually cause little holes in the garment. That’s what happens when there is accidental liquid bleach spillage while pouring into the machine and someone brushes against the washer. Next time they pick up the garment it either has “bleached out” the colors and/or small holes are present.
I suspect that you have bleached some of the dye out of the shirt and the yellow spots are the result. Unfortunately, this is irreversible.

In the future, if you notice a stain after drying, I would first try pretreating it with liquid detergent (apply; rub in; let set 3-5 minutes before washing) and then immediately wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label using detergent and either 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach, if white or Liquid Clorox2® for Colors Color Safe Bleach, if colored. Always check for success after washing and retreat the item if needed before drying.

Dispelling Bleach Myths for Cloth Diapers

Q: When washing cloth diapers, I use a very small amount of bleach to sanitize along with hot water (I own a diaper service). As long as people do what I ask them to do with the diapers, I have no problem removing stains with my organic detergent and this tiny amount of bleach. Now, when people do not follow my instructions and do the worst thing possible, dunk the diapers in their toilet before putting them in a pail, I get a bag full of brown diapers to wash. I don’t know why people ignore what I say and do this, but they do, and then I have to soak them in bleach water using the recommended amount, and then wash and rinse them an extra three times on top of what I already do to make sure there is no bleach left in the fabric.

Some people who use cloth diapers believe that if you use bleach at all, you are doing very harmful things to the environment and hurting your baby’s skin. Some actually warn against using a diaper service because they use bleach. I always thought that the chlorine in the bleach would wash out in the rinse. I’ve never had a customer complain of rashes. People that do complain of rashes with cloth use detergents like Dreft that leave a residue. Also, I wouldn’t feel comfortable giving people diapers that haven’t been sanitized. Bleach and hot water together kill germs.

So, does the chlorine wash out? Am I putting people’s children at risk? Am I killing the environment? How many times should I wash and rinse after soaking in bleach water?

A: I battle these bleach myths quite often and I get very agitated about the misinformation floating around out there. Answers to your questions:

  • “Does the chlorine wash out?” Yes, sodium hypochlorite active is very reactive and with the “soil” load you are dealing with it will be virtually all reacted and gone in the initial laundering/soak. The extra rinses are good “insurance” and definitely give you peace-of-mind that it has been removed.
  • “Am I putting people’s children at risk?” No, you are definitely not putting any children at risk. Actually, by doing the thorough cleaning and sanitizing of the diaper, you are helping prevent diaper rash and spreading unremoved germs.
  • “Am I killing the environment?” No you are NOT killing the environment. Sodium hypochlorite is made from salt and water and after it reacts with the satins and soils in the laundry, 93-97% of it returns to salt and water again. The remaining 3-7% is easily removed in waste treatment and is biodegradable.
  • “How many times should I wash and rinse after soaking in bleach water?” I think 1-2 rinses should be plenty.
Bleeding Colors: Your Questions

Q: My wife has a shirt that is red with white trim. I did not see the shirt and I started a load of reds. I filled the tub with warm water and Clorox color safe powder. I put the clothes in to soak. Big mistake on my part.

When I went to wash and pulled the clothes out of the washer, the shirt was red with pink trim.
How do I get the shirt back to the original way, red and white trim?

A: I hate when a good intentioned deed goes bad. Unfortunately, I probably don’t have much good news for you. New dark colors are notorious for bleeding for a few washes and should always be washed/soaked with similar dark colors. That’s why I always recommend sorting at least whites, lights and darks to avoid the problem in the future. Plus, the extra time soaking just allows more of that unstable dye to bleed off and be available to deposit on other items.

I would try the following:
To have a better chance at red dye removal you will need to kick it up a notch on the bleach scale to liquid bleach like Clorox® Regular- Bleach. So we need to know if the lighter colored items can stand to be bleached.

Just do the simple Bleachability Test on any colored portion in a hidden part of the shirts (2 tsp liquid Clorox® Regular- Bleach in 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden color section area like inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel;; no color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item).

Then follow the recommended presoak procedure (1/4 cup Clorox® Regular- Bleach in gallon of warm water for 5-10 minutes before laundering). Wash in the hottest water recommended on the care label with detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular- Bleach

If the colors are not bleachable, then I would presoaking/applying Liquid Clorox2® for Colors Color Safe Bleach (Apply; rub in; wait ~ 5 minutes; then wash immediately with detergent and recommended amount of Liquid Clorox2® for Colors Color Safe Bleach in the warmest wash water recommended on the care label.

Check for success and retreat if needed BEFORE drying

Also remember that washing in hotter water will SLOWLY remove additional dye over time; this will usually be barely perceptible wash-to-wash.

Your Questions: Removing Permanent Marker from Whites

Q: In 1965 I was given a white cotton twill apron from the “A&P Tea Co.” meat department. I put my name across the apron with a permanent magic marker. I am trying to remove the name. I put the apron in a bucket and covered it with Clorox bleach. It sat for 2 hours. I rinsed in cold water and washed it in the machine with hot water and Tide. The name is untouched. Can you help?

A: Wow A&P, that’s a name I haven’t heard in a while. I’m afraid I don’t have any good news for you. The operable word in your description is PERMANENT magic marker. This stuff is NOT supposed to come off and in my experience; it doesn’t even after several treatments/soaks/washes. Unfortunately you will either have to live with the name or find a way to cover it.

Your Questions: Bleach Stains on Khakis

Q: I sprayed two light khaki pants with Clorox Stain Out. They faded in the area that I pretreated. It also got onto other fabrics in the wash and it looks as though I put Clorox Bleach on them. What can be done about this? These were very expensive pants. Thank you for any advice.

A: This is quite baffling. The fading you describe usually is caused by bleach contact and StainOut does NOT contain any bleach. I have also seen this when Clorox2® for Colors is left on the item and dries. This is the result of the brightening agent which helps make the item look brighter, is “set” in that spot. Again, StainOut does NOT contain a brightening agent. It has surfactants to solubilize the stains but nothing that should cause lighter colored spots.

I would try wetting and retreating the area with liquid detergent then rewashing. If it is surfactants, they would be resolubilized and removed. Also check the StainOut bottle to be sure nothing has been added and consider not using it again.

Your Questions: Disinfecting Children’s Items

Q: My toddler has an off-white stuffed lambie that she loves to suck on the ears and legs. It begins to stink very bad with her saliva germs from her mouth so I have washed it and disinfected it with Clorox Bleach. After 3 days or so, I have to bleach it again. She also has a colored bunny. My question is: Does Clorox2 for Colors have the same disinfecting ingredient as the Clorox Bleach for whites? I would like to disinfect this bunny too. Thanks for you help.

A: Kids always seem to have those favorite toys/blankets that have to go everywhere with them. The white one might benefit from a short bleach presoak (1/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in gallon of warm water for 5-10 minutes) before laundering. Then, launder in hot water using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach. This might extend the “life cycle.”

On the colored one, this is a question that I get a lot. Unfortunately, there currently is NOT a product for disinfecting colored clothes/items. Our Clorox2® for Colors contains hydrogen peroxide as its active ingredient. It is a much weaker bleach than the sodium hypochlorite found in Clorox® Regular- Bleach and is not capable of meeting EPA disinfecting requirements.

As I have written previously, the best way to reduce germ counts in (colored) laundry are:

  • Use the hottest wash water recommended on the care label; you might also do more than one wash on these items to further reduce the bacteria count.
  • Use the hottest dryer setting recommended on the care label. While the dryer isn’t capable of completely killing, it will help lower the germ count.
  • Check the items for Bleachability. It’s surprising how many things labeled as “Do Not Bleach” are actually OK to use liquid bleach. Do the quick Bleachability/colorfast test on a hidden part of the colored item (2 tspn liquid Clorox® Regular-Bleach in 1/4 cup water; apply a drop on a hidden color section area like inside seam, hemline or cuff; wait 1 minute and then blot with towel); no color change means it is safe to use bleach on the item. If bleach-fast, consider a quick bleach soak (1/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in gallon of warm water for 5-10 minutes) before washing in the hottest water recommended on the care label.

Your Questions: Amount of Bleach in Laundry

Q: My wife has been unable to do the wash for a long time. A friend suggested that I use bleach to wash a pair of her white slacks that has many stains. But how much? Should I soak them first, or can I just add some to the wash machine and how much? The washer is a Calypso Whirpool.

A: I could probably help you more if you had provided the fiber type of the slacks and the types of stains. This would allow me to be sure you should be soaking (e.g., 5-10% Spandex should not be soaked, but cotton and poly/cotton are OK) and whether bleach would work on the stains (great for drink and colored stains, but would use liquid detergent on greasy/oily stain, for instance).

The presoak directions are: 1/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach in gallon of warm water for 5-10 minutes to be done before laundering in the laundry tub; drain and then, launder in hot water using detergent and 3/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach. Your couple of glugs was probably a little aggressive for a couple of inches of water. The Calypso should have a bleach dispenser that you can use to add the Clorox® Regular-Bleach; fill to the line or use the 3/4 cup recommendation.

Here are some general tips:

  • Don’t forget to sort by whites and colors
  • Check the garment label for laundering instructions
  • Don’t be shy about pretreating and presoaking to jumpstart your stain removal
  • Use the recommended amount of product
  • Check for success after you wash and BEFORE you dry it - you may need to repeat the treatment
  • Separate lint attractors and spreaders when drying

It’s never too late to learn the laundry game. Use my blog for understanding the basics and even specific issues.

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