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Disinfecting Water While Camping

Q. My question concerns using Clorox bleach to disinfect shower and kitchen wastewater in a tent/camping situation. We don’t re-use the water, and we don’t expect 100% disinfection. However, we do need an easy-to-follow guideline that accommodates a variety of temperatures and quantity of contaminants, and will keep the microbes under control until we can dispose of the water. The rule of thumb I came up with was this:

For a gallon of wastewater, mix in a quarter cup of bleach. Let it stand for half an hour, then sniff it. If it doesn’t smell like bleach, add another quarter cup. Do this twice a day.

Am I grossly under- or over-dosing? Can you suggest a better rule?

A. Thanks for your interesting question. You didn’t say where the treated water was going to be disposed of. If it is back into a waterway, then we would want a little higher standard, but ground watering probably would have a little lower threshold.

Here are some quick calculations to get you grounded:

  • 1/4 cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach/gallon gray water would provide 900 ppm available Chlorine
  • For swimming pools, the range is usually 1-3ppm or 1/8 cup/100 gallons
  • For disinfecting potable drinking water in an emergency 1 tspn/gallon of clear water or 2 tspn/gallon of cloudy water; no chlorine smell after 30 minutes repeat until odor is present.

A difficult question to answer is how much organic load is in the water and how “uniform” is it from source-to-source and time-to-time. This has a direct bearing on your ultimate needed bleach level. So your suggested approach seems reasonable if you want to provide good quality water back into a waterway, since a noticeable chlorine odor would mean it is nearly “clean” water. If you are using the treated water for other purposes, then the single 1/4 cup application and stirring may be enough.

Bleach 101

Q. My husband, who loves bleach, sent me your video the other day because I think bleach is bad for the environment. I listened to it and thought, “Wow, I must have been wrong all this time. Bleach isn’t bad for the environment; it is just salt.” But, having been raised to trust but verify, I did further research. This is what I found:

Making and transporting chlorine, which is toxic, are both dangerous processes. Greenpeace reports that despite tight controls, organochlorines are occasionally produced during chlorine manufacture, and Clorox, which buys the chlorine to make its bleach, readily admits that a serious transport accident in the late 1970s caused a total overhaul of its handling systems. [I am glad the transportation system was overhauled, but the company is buying chlorine, which undermines your video.]

Bleach itself breaks down mainly into salt, oxygen and water when it is released into the environment, but small amounts of AOX, or “adsorbable organic halides,” are also released. They are known to be toxic to shellfish and other marine and aquatic organisms. The Nordic Ministers Conference, made up of environmental ministers from Norway, Sweden and other Nordic countries, lists bleach as one of a number of substances considered dangerous to the environment. Scorecard, the hazards ranking system developed by Environmental Defense in the U.S., ranks bleach as a high risk environmentally and a slight to moderate risk in the workplace.

Ordinary table salt (sodium chloride, NaCl) is half chlorine, and a simple electrochemical reaction with salt water produces chlorine gas easily. That same reaction produces sodium hydroxide (NaOH), and by mixing chlorine gas with sodium hydroxide you create sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl). When you buy a gallon of bleach at the grocery store, what you are buying is the chemical sodium hypochlorite mixed with water in a 5.25-percent solution.

I find this information undermines your arguments that bleach is safe for the environment and thus consider your video and ad campaign misleading.

A. Thanks for your inquiry and I’m glad your husband loves bleach. I admire your research but am a little confused about the way parts of it have been interpreted or are incomplete.

Let’s try and address each one:

  • Yes, Clorox does buy liquid chlorine gas to produce our bleach. We do this as the easiest way to make the sodium hypochlorite active, NaOCl. The chlorine gas comes from the electrolysis of salt water. Then, we bubble the chlorine gas through a solution of water and caustic to make the dilute household liquid bleach solution (5-7% sodium hypochlorite active). There is no free chlorine in the product after this reaction is completed and the reaction is carried out in a closed, sealed container. As for the Greenpeace reference, I’d need to know what “…organochlorines are occasionally produced during chlorine manufacture” (frequency and amount) really means, as this probably is something that might occur, and they can’t prove it happens. It’s theoretically possible, but consistent proof probably doesn’t exist. If this were happening on a frequent basis, manufacturers definitely would/have addressed the issue.
  • Yes, Clorox did overhaul the chlorine gas handling system, but not as a result of an accident at our facilities. This was done to insure that transporting and handling chlorine gas at our facility would be as safe as possible for our employees and the surrounding community. In addition, we shared this world class technology for free with our suppliers and other manufacturers to minimize the risk of an accident occurring anywhere.
  • After use in household cleaning or laundry, sodium hypochlorite breaks down into 95-98% salt and water. The remaining 3-5% is easily handled/removed by either sewage treatment or a septic tank where it degrades like starting soil. Further, no liquid bleach enters the environment as it reacts with organic loads in pipes and is consumed long before it reaches sewage treatment.
  • While the Nordic Ministers Report and even the Environmental Defense lists may have bleach on their list, one should note that Europeans (especially Northern Europe) historically have always had a negative bent toward bleach. A large amount of their “fear” is based on chlorine reactions in manufacturing processes like paper mills, and these industrial situations involve entirely different chemistry than using sodium hypochlorite for laundry and household cleaning. There have also been several studies published in Southern Europe that are in direct opposition to their Northern brothers position, and are based on household usage (I can send references if you like). Finally, we are registered with the United States EPA and meet all their rigid standards for efficacy and safety.
  • Table salt is sodium chloride, not sodium chlorine. Actually, sodium chloride contains 60% chlorine (35/58 Mol Wt). I wouldn’t recommend that you try “..the simple electrochemical reaction of salt and water,” as you would find this isn’t as easy as you have written. The chemical reaction to produce table salt starts with two very reactive materials,sodium and chlorine, neither of which you would want to handle, but these are changed into a chemical composition that one can put on food, run through your body, and can be found in the ocean. The new/final product has completely different properties than the starting materials, which is usually true of most chemical reactions. This also holds true for sodium hypochlorite, because at the end of the day, after reacting with stains and soils, it will be mostly salt and water. It is a very reactive chemical which quickly and effectively breaks down stains and soils into smaller parts that allow them to be more easily removed from surfaces and fibers, strips away body oils, sweat and dead skin flakes from underwear and bedding, and kills bacteria, viruses and mold/mildew so that MSRA, HIV, H1N1 and a host of other bad guys will be less of a problem for mankind. And finally, whenever there is a natural disaster, one of the first requests from folks on the front line is for cases of Clorox® Regular-Bleach to treat drinking water and prevent the spread of cholera and other debilitating diseases. They know that when used as directed, liquid bleach is safe and effective.
  • So when you purchase a bottle of Clorox® Regular-Bleach at the grocery or Target, you are buying a solution of at least 6% sodium hypochlorite with a little sodium hydroxide and sodium carbonate to help buffer the solution and help maintain the product performance for up to a year. Under normal usage, it will quickly break down to 95-98% salt and water, and any remaining bleach will quickly react with components in your sewer or septic tank line.

So I don’t think that I have been misleading in the videos or blog material. I’m proud of the science behind Clorox® Regular-Bleach, and feel that it provides the consumer with the most cost-effective cleaning and disinfectant product on the market while doing so safely and without damaging the environment.

Sanitizing Pet Food and Water Bowls

Q. I travel a lot for my job, so I have automatic feeders for my cats, along with an automatic water dispenser that I keep filled for them outside. The problem is that by the time I get back home, the inside of their water jug and bowl that it drips into has turned green. Is there any small amount of Clorox that I could safely put in their container to keep it from “going green”? I clean it out with a water and Clorox mix, rinse it well, refill and hope the “green slime” will not return, but it always does. What do you recommend?

A. The water container should be thoroughly cleaned and sanitized before use. If possible, I would do this in an automatic dishwasher and then follow the directions below.

The following are directions from our EPA Master Label for Clorox® Regular-Bleach:

DrL-petbowls.jpg

When you leave, you can add a couple of drops/quart to the water to produce the 5ppm:

DrL-drinkingwater.jpg

Post Super Bowl Stain Tips

Ok, we had our annual Super Bowl party on Sunday and you guessed it…even Dr. Laundry wasn’t immune to those little spots and spills.

What a day! I always look forward to seeing old friends, eating, drinking and yelling our way through 4 quarters of really exciting pigskin. Our crowd’s other favorite activity is reacting to and rating each Super Bowl commercial, which didn’t seem up to par this year.

With that many people, there were plenty of opportunities to provide stain removal advice. While you may not be able to remove it all at the party, these tips will help you tackle the problem when you get home or after the guests leave.

General Stain Treatment Rules
1. Remove as much as possible as quickly as possible. Quickly blot or wipe away the excess.
2. If the stain has a greasy/oily component, always treat that first and don’t run water over the stain. Try rubbing some liquid dishwashing or laundry detergent into the stain from the back if possible. Wait 1-3 minutes, then rinse away with warm water.
3. Consider washing items when you get home, or if they are dry clean only, try to get them to the cleaners within 48 hours.

And here are some remedies for a few of the expected party favorites:

Beverages
• Adult beverages come in a variety of potential colors. We need to remove it:
o A cool water rinse from the back will help make the stain easier to pretreat.
o If the item is white or bleachable, try pretreating with Clorox® Bleach Pen gel™ before washing.
o If colored, try pretreating with Liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster before washing.
o Wash in the warmest water recommended on the fabric care label using detergent and:
- Clorox® Regular-Bleach, if it’s a white or bleachable item OR
- Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster if it’s a colored item.
o Check before drying. Retreat item if needed.

Appetizers
• BBQ sauces, soy sauces, baked beans and salsa:
o A cool water rinse from the back will help make the stain easier to pretreat.
o If the item is white or bleachable, try pretreating with Clorox® Bleach Pen gel™ before washing.
o If the item is colored, try pretreating with Liquid Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster before washing.
o Wash in the warmest water recommended on the fabric care label using detergent and
- Clorox® Regular-Bleach, if it’s a white or bleachable item OR
- Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster if it’s a colored item.
o Check before drying. Retreat item if needed.

• Buffalo wings, meatballs and fried foods: Beware of greasy spots!:
o Pretreat with liquid detergent and wait 3-5 minutes.
o Wash in the hottest water recommended on the fabric care label using detergent and
- Clorox® Regular-Bleach, if it’s a white or bleachable item OR
- Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster if it’s a colored item.
o Check before drying. Retreat item if needed.

Main Course
• Chili, hamburgers, steaks: Again, beware of greasy spots:
o Pretreat with liquid detergent and wait 3-5 minutes.
o Wash in the hottest water recommended on the fabric care label using detergent and
- Clorox® Regular-Bleach, if it’s a white or bleachable item or
- Clorox2® Stain Fighter and Color Booster if it’s a colored item.
o Check before drying. Retreat item if needed.

Did I miss anything? If so, just drop me a quick note/question and I’ll send you a personal answer right away.

Good luck, and I hope you also had a great time on Sunday!!

Guest Posting on a Bleach Myth

While Dr. Laundry is on vacation, he has allowed me to be a guest on his blog today. I’ve asked for this privilege, because I’m concerned about a recent myth I heard about, and as a toxicologist I wanted to help debunk this myth. Hopefully the parents reading this will let other parents, and their kids know about this dangerous and VERY untrue myth.

The myth concerns the belief that drinking liquid bleach would mask the presence of drugs in urine. This is just not true. In no way will drinking Clorox Liquid bleach mask the presence of drugs in urine. It is important to know that Clorox Liquid Bleach is not meant to be ingested. If it is accidentally swallowed, it’s important to follow the instructions on the product label, which tells you to call the poison control center or a doctor for treatment.

Of course, you may know that Clorox liquid bleach can be used to disinfect water in the event of an emergency. In those instances, only a small amount of the bleach is needed, anywhere from 8 to 16 drops per gallon of water, depending on the condition of the water.

Noe Galvan, Ph.D.
Product Safety, Environmental & Regulatory Compliance

Super Bowl Stain Tips

OK, we’re having our annual Super Bowl party on Sunday. The menu is planned, the RSVPs are in and most of the items are bought and ready to go.

What a day! I always look forward to seeing old friends, eating, drinking and yelling our way through 4 quarters of hopefully good pigskin. If not, there is always the other crowd favorite activity of reacting and rating each Super Bowl commercial.

With that many people there is sure to be an opportunity to provide some stain removal advice. While I may not be able to remove it all at the party, these tips will help you tackle the problem when you get home or after the guests leave.

General Stain Treatment Rules

  1. Remove as much as possible as quickly as possible. Quickly blot or wipe away the excess.
  2. If the stain has a greasy/oily component, always treat that first and don’t run water over the stain. Try rubbing some liquid dishwashing or laundry detergent into the stain from the back if possible. Wait 1-3 minutes then rinse away with warm water.
  3. Consider washing items when you get home or if they are dry clean only try to get them to the cleaners within 48 hours.

So here are some remedies for a few of the expected party favorites.

Beverages

  • Adult beverages come in a variety of potential colors. We need to remove it.
    • A cool water rinse from the back will help make the stain easier to pretreat.
    • If white or bleachable, try pretreating with Clorox® Bleach Pen gel™ before washing
    • If colored, try pretreating with Liquid Clorox2® Bleach for Colors before washing
    • Wash in warmest water recommended on fabric care label using detergent and
      • Clorox® Regular-Bleach, if white or bleachable item or
      • Clorox2® Bleach for Colors if colored item.
    • Check before drying. Retreat item if needed.

Appetizers

  • BBQ sauces, soy sauces, baked beans, salsa.
    • A cool water rinse from the back will help make the stain easier to pretreat.
    • If white or bleachable, try pretreating with Clorox® Bleach Pen gel™ before washing.
    • If colored, try pretreating with Liquid Clorox2® Bleach for Colors before washing.
    • Wash in warmest water recommended on fabric care label using detergent and
      • Clorox® Regular-Bleach, if white or bleachable item or
      • Clorox2® Bleach for Colors if colored item.
    • Check before drying. Retreat item if needed.

  • Buffalo wings, meatballs, Bagel Bits. Beware of greasy spots.
    • Pretreat with liquid detergent and wait 3-5 minutes.
    • Wash in hottest water recommended on fabric care label using detergent and
      • Clorox® Regular-Bleach, if white or bleachable item or
      • Clorox2® Bleach for Colors if colored item.
    • Check before drying. Retreat item if needed.

Main Course

  • Chili, hamburgers, steaks. Again, beware of greasy spots.
    • Pretreat with liquid detergent and wait 3-5 minutes.
    • Wash in hottest water recommended on fabric care label using detergent and
      • Clorox® Regular-Bleach, if white or bleachable item or
      • Clorox2® Bleach for Colors if colored item.
    • Check before drying. Retreat item if needed.

Good luck and have a great time on Sunday!!

Stain of the Season – Coffee

A cup of Joe, cappuccino or soy latte, coffee gets your day started. For lots of folks, it’s not the last one you may have during the day. Whether driving in your car, reading the newspaper at home, or sitting at your desk (as I am now), drinking coffee is a social ritual for many. However, this routinely relaxing activity can spoil your day with a bump in the road and a spill on your nice white shirt.
Here are some coffee stain removal tips so you can keep your calm.

  • If you happen to spill coffee on your clothing at the office, rinse it right away with cold water. Resist the urge to use that bar of soap in the restroom on the stain. Using bar soap may cause the stain to set, thus making it much more difficult to remove. Wait until you are home again to treat the stain properly.
  • Once safely in the laundry room, if the dried out stained item is a white, bleachable fabric, try a quick pre-soak in ¼ cup of Clorox® Regular-Bleach per gallon of cold water for 5 minutes. Wash the article immediately in the hottest water setting recommended on the label using a regular detergent and an additional ¾ cup Clorox® Regular-Bleach or our new Clorox® UltimateCare™ Premium Bleach.
  • If you happened to be wearing a colored or patterned item of clothing when the spill occurred, apply Clorox 2® Bleach for Colors and rub into the stain. Wash the item in the hottest water recommended using regular detergent and more Clorox 2 for Colors to ensure the stain is fully removed.
  • Be sure to inspect the item while it is still wet after washing, and if some coffee still remains, repeat these steps before drying.

Go ahead and pour yourself another cup, or head down to your local coffee shop. With these stain removal tips, you can sip without fear of permanent coffee stains ruining your favorite outfit or your morning routine.

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